Major Hari Pal Singh Ahluwalia was an Indian Army officer, mountaineer, and author who became one of the first Indians to stand atop Mount Everest. Born in Shimla and educated at St. George's College, Mussoorie, he was commissioned into the Corps of Electrical and Mechanical Engineers (EME) in 1958.
From childhood, he felt a deep, spiritual connection with mountains. That calling would lead him to the roof of the world — and later, to overcome a challenge far greater than any peak.
Led by Lieutenant Commander M.S. Kohli of the Indian Navy, the 1965 expedition was the first all-Indian successful ascent of Everest. The team of 19 climbers, 50 Sherpas, and 900 porters set out from Jaynagar on 26 February 1965, establishing Base Camp in the Khumbu region by 22 March.
Advancing via the Western Cwm and Lhotse Face to the South Col, the expedition established Camp VI at a record 27,930 feet on the Southeast Ridge. Four teams reached the summit in succession, putting a world-record nine climbers on top — a record that stood for 17 years.
On 29 May 1965 — exactly 12 years to the day after Hillary and Tenzing's historic first ascent — Major Ahluwalia summited alongside H.C.S. Rawat and Phu Dorjee Sherpa. It was the first time three climbers stood on the summit of Everest simultaneously.
"There's a lot of anxiety, the mind works overtime, the body is working overtime. And then when you reach the summit — it's a beautiful moment. You are close to the sky. It is deep blue and the feeling that you get is that there is a job you had to do and the job is well done."
Just months after conquering Everest, Major Ahluwalia's unit came under fire during the 1965 Indo-Pakistani War. A bullet struck his neck and severed his spine, leaving him permanently paralysed below the waist and confined to a wheelchair for the rest of his life.
During rehabilitation in the UK, he saw how spinal injury patients were treated with advanced care and dignity — facilities that simply did not exist in India. He resolved to build the same for his countrymen.
In 1993, he founded the Indian Spinal Injuries Centre (ISIC) in Vasant Kunj, New Delhi — today rated India's most advanced spine, orthopaedic, and neuromuscular centre. He served as its Chairman until his passing.
"Each man carries within himself his own mountain, which he must climb to attain a fuller knowledge of himself. Whether the mountain you climb is physical or spiritual, the climb will change you."
Author of 13 books including Higher Than Everest (autobiography), Faces of Everest, Eternal Himalaya, Ladakh — The Hermit Kingdom, and The Summit Within (part of NCERT Class 8 curriculum). Also produced the documentary series Beyond Himalaya for Discovery Channel.
"As I look back at life, it is nothing but the power of the mind that matters the most. Scaling Mount Everest and scaling up ISIC have taught me a powerful truth — life is all about conquering the other summit — the summit of mind."